Sunday, 20 January 2013

S/S 13

We've officially launched the Spring phase at work and I've found myself unhealthily addicted to the app, spending every spare minute studying the Spring/Summer shows for work and of course because it's what I love. So it seemed about time for another season roundup starting with, by far my standout show, Saint Laurent. The majority of this collection was absolute perfection, consisting of blacks, greys and nudes it was admittedly not very Spring/Summer but, the flashes of jewel toned brights were enough to be present yet not distract from the evident glamorous rock chic theme. Slim, sharp trouser suits and leather trousers paired with billowing sleeves, soft sheer fabrics and those beautifully iconic pussy bows all seem fresh and effortless even though the style has been done to death and of course those hats. You know I'm usually all about the models; I can hate an outfit but put it on Sigrid Agren or Lindsey Wixson and I'll work 3 jobs to own it! There was something about shading these girls' faces that made it all seem more attainable, perhaps and the mystery left us wanting more. Slimane was obviously influenced by his time at Dior Homme but for his womenswear debut, boy done good.



In absolute contrast to this is Erdem; overtly pretty and feminine with pastel based floral and lace. The clashing neon and streaks of reptile print make this pretty yet edgy not twee and saccharine. With only two trousers in the entire collection, the dresses had to be varied from sheer panels and cut outs to asymetric and zipped fronts. The styling was simple; no jewellery, side parted and slicked back hair into a low slung bun, a subtle dab of orange in the centre of the bottom lip and flawless dewy skin. Jackets, capes and intricate lace and reptile print gloves gave the modern colours and cuts a vintage ladylike twist and the clunky stack heels aid in making the look less delicate and more unexpected.



I was shocked at how many looks I loved from the Elie Saab show, trying to narrow it down to just four was pretty tough. Looking at each outfit in isolation, it could be easy to think there are three different shows happening, but not in a way that the collection feels unfinished and thrown together. It starts with simple tailoring, trouser and short suits in block, muted colours. The middle looks are the ones that suprised me the most - bold, graphic prints muted and made feminine with either form fitting dresses, deep plunge fronts or long flowing skirts. The final looks were made from delicate, sheer lace interspersed with sparkling minidresses in the same colour palette that opened the show. What brings all these looks together is the structure; thick, black piping that breaks up the bold prints or pulls in the waist; sharp lines and bandage skirts within the suits and conveniently placed solid strips within the lace adding structure and modesty! Also, note the hair styles are side parted and slicked back as above, but loosely clipped at the nape of the neck. I think a hair trend is emerging.



Matthew Williamson was really the only other collection that really stood out for me, (shock, no Chloé!) there were stand out pieces from other designers, the odd sundress at Vanessa Bruno or skirt dress at Chanel but this one was consistently beautiful. Apart from the embellished pocket mini dress from a few years back, I've never taken an interest in Williamson, but if every season is as elegant and refreshing as this one then I have been missing out. The cool tones suit the season perfectly, rich, light and summery but not in an obvious bright way and the cut out on the dresses is sexy enough, but the shapes are still wearable. Sheer blouses and tailored jackets contrast with the party dresses making it simple to pull inspiration for any occassion. Easy, unfussy hair make each outfit less dramatic and definitely tick the day to night box if the style can be worn with shorts and shirts or full length gowns.



I do intensely dislike summer, but now at least I'm exicted to shop for it!




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